Friday, 10 February 2023

KIDILL's Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection

Written by William Drouen
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KIDILL

Through his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection presented at the Paris Fashion Week, Hiroaki Sueyasu, KIDILL's artistic director, connects to the pure and untouchable feelings that emanate from an individual.

The research of one's self and of freedom typical of the "enfants terribles", the skaters, is the dynamic core of KIDILL's Winter collection.


This deep and personal search led Hiroaki to remember his attachment to Spikze Jonze, Harmony Korine, Danny Boyle's movies or Z-boys's documentary, capturing the lives of teenagers, moving between a certain carefree freedom, but also the feeling of the danger of losing it.

KIDILL's A/W2023 Collection: The Concept

To support his strong idea around skaters, Hiroaki makes KIDILL's Autumn/Winter 2023 season a collaboration with DC shoes and DC skaters, allowing him to develop and express his emotions while taking up the DIY codes of skaters, as a tribute and a certain nostalgia of this "90's skaters" vibe. This collection is a tribute to the evolution of the "Enfants Terribles" transitioning into adults in the making.

The feelings that overflow from an individual, pure and unclouded, are like the “water” that fills a depleted vessel. Hiroaki Sueyasu, ruminating on his fundamental mindset toward creation, strongly reconnects with his “core” which he assures eternal, through his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection.

About KIDILL's Autumn/Winter 2023 Collection

Thanks to the collaboration with DC SHOES and DC skaters, Sueyasu’s most present-tense emotions are clearly expressed in this collection. He applies multi-prints to military materials that evoke the DIY atmosphere of old skateboarding which landed a meet of tweeds and tulles and pursued the unexpectedness of the combination of the bijoux and ribbons. Foregrounding the do-it-yourself spirit was a manifestation of the skaters’ reverence for a mindset that values freedom, and the most unrestrained approach to conjure the “core” of Sueyasu more than ever.

In addition to the ample perceptions captured by the ongoing dialogue with many collaborators and with the noise ambience of Wong Kar-wai’s films, the smoky air, the dreary grass and owers, the decadent and chaotic mood, the sharp gaze gliding the gender gap eliciting the texture of a deteriorated wallpaper reflected in the combination of denim and girl prints add to the quintessential of KIDILL’s interpretation of the boy’s look inducing the masculinity and the charm at the crux of the collection.

Thus the image we perceive is that of individuals living their days and immersing themselves in skating to fill the void of depletion and dissatisfaction, only then they can discover another reality and desire of their own, developing a connection with their peers to be saved. The decisive purity being the outset of their actions synchronises with the “essential freedom” that Sueyasu himself continues to covet throughout his life.

“Fashion saved me,” he said, recalling the fateful initial impulse that led him to start his creations in London, following his own feelings alone.

“I am saved as in the past by moving my hands as I desire to customising vintage clothes without refrains. I can plunge my frustrations both residing in reality and imagination to form a structure to my 'likes', a fact that will never not change. Although the 'likes' sometimes bind us, at the same time bring out freedom".

What is certain for oneself is to be eternally connected to one’s “core” which is pure, and believable. This is is the beauty of one's own style. Whatever name may be given to, processing on updating, never standing still, and never feeling left to run dry to construct a new counterpoint. The enfants terribles is the current statement of KIDILL.

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